You always wanted to know how Lingerie Design happens? Well, I'm very happy to be able to present you a new series: The amazing german Designer ParaNoire just started to do underwear (yay!) and is willing to share her experiences with us on my blog!
If you don't yet know ParaNoire Design, make sure to stop by at her Facebook Page or Webpage!
In this first article I want to introduce this creative mastermind to you, from that on I'll be gone and she will make sure to inform you what happens in the ParaNoire Lingerie Design!
Eva, you are now sewing, crafting and being ParaNoire Design for around 5 years. What was the point to decide that you want to sew for others?
More or less I just got the idea to sew for other people when they asked me to do it, and later to sell them too. Much later I tried to study Fashion and Design, but found out that it wasn't the right thing for me. I feel better when I am able to do a lot of different things than have a carriere planned out for the rest of my life. So now I'm studying my dream: statistics (don't laugh!) and to keep balance I'm always working on new ideas for ParaNoire Design. (For all those who think that Statistics is strange: Fashion design and constructing patterns and scaling sizes is more or less nothing else than applied mathematics and statistics!)
You offer your stuff in many different sizes. Do you always make one for yourself?
I don't always do that, only if the Design blends in with my style. In everyday life I'm more for practical, comfortable and functional clothing and wouldn't have much occasions to wear the elegant designs of ParaNoire Design.)
But it's funny, I made some prototype versions for myself of the all new ParaNoire Lingerie collection! Lingerie always works :D
Furthermore I've been unhappy for YEARS with design- and sizing variety in the common underwear stores, something always poked somewhere, I had to choose my size from the partly embarrassingly unattractive styles from the plus-size collections. And I'm just half a head too tall for the styles of standard sizings and all the clothes just are too low or aren't long enough.
Own problems always is the best motivator (and I CAN'T be the only one having these problems, hence the idea for my new sizing system, I'll gladly talk about it some more another day)
And another thing about making mock ups for onself: Creating patterns for oneself and altering them to your own body is, especially when it comes to more complicated patterns, more or less undoable (that's why I don't sew stuff for myself very often) plus I'm not an average sized person concernig size and height, that's why I like altering my patterns to a person more „average“. I want my things – if they aren't made to measure anyway– to fit a lot of people.
For the Lingerie Collection I have expanded my prototypes testing to my fan base (more Messpunkte, sagt der Statistiker!), which worked splendidly, this way I could dress a lot of different body types and sizes while providing the brave voluntary helpers a - not in all details perfect – new ParaNoire product on a unbeatable price.
How big are your fabric stocks?
Not that big, because I try to not collect too much things in my life which take up „real“ space and most of my designs are made on customers wishes.
My stock - spreading over about 2 halfs of BILLY shelfs, one seabag with fabric samples and a few boxes with leftovers – contains some larger coupons of standard fabric bargains which I do need often, plus some darling beauties I just HAD TO buy somewhere, because they are just that beautiful.
But I really try to keep the real fabric masses as low as possible, because it's not really a good idea to spend a lot of money on fabrics without using them. Plus my apartement is my atelier and I have to spend the rest of my personal life there too :) So I sort through once a while and give fabrics too friends or fans.
I can remember a lot of drawers full of buttons... how many buttons do you possess?
Oh, that's a good question. The last thing I have in mind are 35kg (in a box under the bed and a selfmade button-shelf), but I didn't spend quality time with my collection in some time (only when if needed some buttons for a project). I should try to sort them ;)
How do you want to integrate Upcycling to your lingerie collections?
It's always a walk on the borderline to use „used“ and „preowned“ clothing for something as private as underwear, but all in all it's more a psychological border.
Fact is I don't really know a lot of things which couldn't be cleaned from Second-Hand-Clothing in a professional cleaning service. And if this doesn't help I would never use this fabric for my customers or myself.
Having said this, when it comes to underwear there is a lot of use for stretchy fabrics like knitwear, jersey, lace, net and so on. You can make lace inserts and applications, or construct the patterns patchwork-like from different fabrics, the lining of panties is mostly made from Jersey and if the fabric is ok nothing is against just using an old t-shirt.
Who thinks somebody else's clothing is too much to take, there is always the possibility to send me a shirt (e.g. From a concert with a print) and I will transform it into a nice costum panty with the print on a prominent place. Or a girdle. Or a top. There are endless possibilities.