In my last post I talked about bras for smaller boobs in general, so today let's talk about bra styles!
For a start, let's remember the "ground rules" of the last article:
- A bra should never hurt. Even if the salesperson tells you "but it fits so WELL!". If it hurts, it doesn't fit.
- The underwires enclose the breast tissue and don't poke into your boobs.
- The band doesn't rise up in the back. In order to really give support, it should fit snug but comfortable (!).
- The straps do not hold the whole weight of your breasts, the band is the main support.
- The center gore is laying flat on your sternum between your boobs.
- A new bra should always fit on the loosest hook, if the band stretches with time you have room to hook it tighter and it will fit longer.
That's why you should take care that the band is tight. But now, this is a bit complicated:
My experiences show, that thin and small busted women can often wear bands relatively „loose“.
Someone has got underbust measurements of 69cm (27inches (tightly measured)). In the D+ Range you would stay with this bandsize or sometimes, depending on the brand, even go down a bandsize..
But if the bust measurement is in relation to the underbust very small too, then 65bands EU (30 bands UK) will in many cases be very very ok! If they don't provide enough support then you can still go on to try 60 bands (UK 28) And YES, I know this sounds like the +4 rule. But I don't see this as a rule. It's just my experience that bands don't have to be THIS tight when dealing with smaller boobs.
So the „I have to have to have to go down some bandsizes“ method is very often not a good idea with smaller busts, especially when it comes to women with a very muscular bild or women with a small amount of body fat (think of: they just aren't that squeezable)
So it's important just to try on different sizes to find your comfortable and right size for YOU, but a good starting point is the tight underbust measurement in cm and converting this to your UK size. Or measuring the underbust in inch and start with that measurement and maybe adding 2 inches. Personally I really think it's easier to start with snug bands and choose tighter ones if it's really too loose.
Note: This is really a guide rule for Small busts!
I really think that brafitting just doesn't work with theory and measurements alone! We are no generated 3D models, there are so many factors to think of.
Bra styles for smaller breasts
A lot of the smaller bust girls need broad wires but rather shallow cups. If you are one of those ladies (*hello* by the way ;) ) it's good if you stay away from plunges if you just begin searching for your size and your fit.
Finding a nice fitting plunge for this type of breast (the german girls on busenfreundinnen.net call it the "breitbrust" which means kind of "broad breast", so you have your volume all spread over your chest and don't have those like "tiny apples" boobs) is a bit difficult, but with a bit of research and maybe try and error it can be done.
And: stay away from fullcups. Since your breast tissues reaches very high on your chest, must fullcups and plunges will dig in it.
Balcony bras and halfcups (vertical seams only!!) will be a great choice.
That doesn't mean that fullcups never fit, they are just a lot harder to fit.
When it comes to smaller boobs common plunge and fullcup styles are mostly a bad idea.
As always, the exception proves the rule (for example Tabasco and Latte Plunge by OnlyHer).
Small boobs can often be rather shallow, hence there is often room in the deepth of the cups whilst the edges of the cups cut in, especially if you try on fullcups or the plunges you can find in European stores (the busenfreundinnen community calls them „euro-plunges“).
So it's a good idea just to search for the right styles when bra shopping, especially if you don't have a lot of experience with bras yet:
Stay clear from bras with a really horizontal seam (fullcups), rather search for halfcups (vertical seams only). Most of the time they are more „open“ to the edges of the cup, the cups won't cut in the breast tissue. A lot of balcony style bras work with smaller busts too.
Unfortunately there is no perfect guide to which bra will fit „the smaller bust“.
Because all boobs are different and even if you have smaller breasts there are a lot of different shapes!
So for example a rather common problem with smaller sizes is that the cups are too deep if the bra wires are wide enough. (Remember: The wires should go all the way around your breast, not poking in your breast tissue)
That's why many women actually DO wear very tight bands, in order to stretch the wires and „flatten“ the cups. (Not to confuse with Reverse Letterphobia on Drüber und Drunter!)
But I warmly recommend to buy bras that really fit comfortably from the beginning.
So, in the next part I'll post my tips for you to shop fitted bras for smaller sizes!